DefinitionsAll TypesBeginner
An airgun launches a projectile using compressed gas, compressed air, or a spring-driven piston rather than burning gunpowder. Federal law (18 USC 921) defines a firearm as a weapon that expels a projectile by the action of an explosive, so airguns sit outside that definition and are regulated more like consumer products at the federal level. They still launch real projectiles at lethal velocities in many cases, so they should be handled with the same discipline as a firearm. State and city rules vary, with New Jersey and Rhode Island treating airguns as firearms and New York City requiring a license.
Read full answer →Power TypesAll TypesBeginner
The four common power types are PCP (pre-charged pneumatic), break barrel (which uses either a coiled spring or a gas piston), multi-pump pneumatic, and CO2. PCPs store high-pressure air in an onboard reservoir for many shots per fill. Break barrels generate compressed air on each shot by cocking a spring or gas ram. Multi-pumps build pressure with several strokes of an onboard pump. CO2 guns use 12-gram cartridges or larger bulk tanks of liquefied carbon dioxide. Each has different tradeoffs for cost, complexity, power, and shot consistency.
Read full answer →Power TypesPCPBeginner
A PCP makes sense when you want the best accuracy, low recoil, and many shots per fill, and you are willing to invest in a fill source like a hand pump, scuba tank, or compressor. PCPs dominate competition and serious airgun hunting because the shot cycle is dead-still and most modern PCPs are regulated for shot-to-shot consistency. The downsides are higher entry cost and the extra equipment to put air into the gun. If you only want to shoot once in a while in the backyard, a break barrel or CO2 gun is simpler.
Read full answer →Power TypesBreak BarrelBeginner
A break barrel makes sense when you want a self-contained gun with no fill equipment, no cartridges, and no recurring costs beyond pellets. You cock the gun by breaking the barrel down, load a pellet directly into the breech, snap it closed, and shoot. They are great for plinking, pest control, and backyard shooting in calibers like .177 and .22. The tradeoff is that spring and gas piston guns are hold-sensitive and have a unique double recoil that demands the artillery hold to shoot accurately.
Read full answer →Power TypesCO2Beginner
A CO2 gun makes sense for casual plinking, backyard target shooting, and training, especially when you want a realistic feel of a semi-auto pistol or rifle. They are inexpensive to operate and require no pumping or filling beyond installing a 12-gram cartridge. The catch is that CO2 is temperature-sensitive: performance falls off in cold weather and improves in heat, and rapid shooting cools the gun and drops velocity. They are not the right tool for serious hunting at distance.
Read full answer →Power TypesMulti-PumpBeginner
A multi-pump makes sense for a low-maintenance, all-in-one outdoor gun, especially for younger or new shooters who want variable power. You pump the forearm a set number of times to build pressure (typically 3 to 8 pumps on classics like the Benjamin 392), then load and shoot. Fewer pumps is quieter and lower power for plinking; more pumps is for hunting small game. There are no cartridges to buy and no air tanks to fill. The downside is slower follow-up shots and more physical effort over a long session.
Read full answer →PerformanceAll TypesBeginner
FPS is feet per second, which measures velocity at the muzzle. FPE is foot-pounds of energy, which measures the actual kinetic energy the projectile carries. The formula is FPE = (weight in grains x velocity squared) / 450240. FPE matters more than raw FPS because a heavy pellet at moderate velocity often produces more energy and penetrates better than a light pellet shot fast. Manufacturers love to advertise high FPS using the lightest alloy pellets, which is misleading for hunting purposes.
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For paper plinking and BB targets, even 3 to 6 FPE is enough. For ethical small game hunting (squirrel, rabbit, starling) the broadly accepted minimum is around 12 FPE delivered to the target with a vital-zone hit. For larger pests like raccoons or for longer ranges, 20 to 30 FPE is more appropriate. Big-bore airgun hunting for deer-sized game requires far more, with several states setting minimums in the hundreds of foot-pounds. Always check your state regulations before hunting.
Read full answer →PerformanceAll TypesBeginner
No. A high FPS number on the box usually comes from the lightest, cheapest alloy pellet a manufacturer can find, and those pellets often have terrible accuracy. Heavier lead pellets at lower velocity routinely deliver more energy at the target, more accuracy, and less wind drift. Above roughly 1,100 FPS, lead pellets often turn supersonic and become inaccurate due to transonic instability. Chase accuracy and FPE, not the headline FPS.
Read full answer →CaliberAll TypesBeginner
.177 is the most popular caliber worldwide, the only caliber accepted in international 10-meter Olympic competition, and the cheapest to feed. Pellets are light and fast, giving the flattest trajectory of any common airgun caliber, which is why target shooters prefer it. It is a fine pest and small-game caliber inside about 25 yards when you have at least 12 FPE and place shots well. The drawback is less knockdown energy than larger calibers at distance.
Read full answer →CaliberAll TypesBeginner
.22 is the all-around hunting caliber and is generally considered the best balance for small game and pest control out to about 50 yards. A given airgun in .22 will produce roughly 20 percent more energy than the same gun in .177, and the heavier pellet bucks wind better and dumps more energy on impact. The trade is a more curved trajectory than .177 and slightly higher pellet cost. For most hunters, .22 is the right first hunting caliber.
Read full answer →CaliberAll TypesIntermediate
Step up when you need more energy at distance or for tougher game. .25 is popular for raccoon and crow-sized pests at 50 to 75 yards from a powerful PCP, and .30 is the entry to true long-range and small-deer-class hunting. .35, .45, and .50 are big-bore territory used for hogs, predators, and even deer-sized game in states that allow it. Texas requires at least .30 caliber, a 150-grain bullet, and 215 ft-lbs muzzle energy for deer-class game, while Virginia requires at least .35 caliber for deer. Larger calibers eat air fast and shot count drops.
Read full answer →BuyingAll TypesBeginner
A .177 break barrel in the 8 to 12 FPE class, or a quality multi-pump like a Benjamin 392/397, will plink happily for years with no fill equipment. If budget allows and you want maximum ease and accuracy, a regulated .177 or .22 PCP plus a hand pump is hard to beat. CO2 guns are also excellent for casual indoor or backyard plinking. Avoid the highest-velocity magnum springers as a first gun; they are loud, hard to cock, and unforgiving of poor technique.
Read full answer →BuyingAll TypesBeginner
A .22 caliber rifle producing at least 12 FPE at the muzzle is the standard answer. A regulated .22 PCP gives the easiest path to consistent accuracy. A quality .22 break barrel works too if you commit to learning the artillery hold. Pair the gun with an airgun-rated scope, a good supply of mid-weight domed pellets, and a chronograph so you can confirm your real velocity and energy.
Read full answer →BuyingAll TypesBeginner
For close-range pests in a populated area, prioritize a quiet, accurate gun. A shrouded or moderated .22 PCP at 18 to 25 FPE handles rats, pigeons, and starlings cleanly while keeping noise low. A .177 PCP at 12 to 18 FPE is a great choice for indoor barn pests because pellets are less likely to over-penetrate. Always confirm local ordinances; some cities restrict discharge of any projectile-launching device within city limits even if state law is permissive.
Read full answer →BuyingAll TypesBeginner
For 10-meter Olympic-style target shooting, you need a .177 single-shot match rifle or pistol such as those made by Feinwerkbau, Walther, Steyr, or Anschutz, and a recoilless platform (PCP or single-stroke pneumatic). For field target, a regulated .177 PCP in the 12 to 20 FPE range plus a high-magnification adjustable parallax scope is the standard. For benchrest, larger calibers (.22 to .30) on heavy regulated PCPs dominate. Talk to your local club before buying, because match rules dictate the gun.
Read full answer →PerformanceAll TypesBeginner
Airguns release a smaller volume of gas at much lower pressure than a centerfire firearm (a few thousand PSI vs tens of thousands), and they have no powder combustion to amplify the report. The remaining noise is the pellet's mechanical departure plus, on a springer, the spring/piston's vibration. Shrouded barrels, factory moderators, and integrated suppressors on PCPs and some break barrels reduce that further. Always check local law: airgun moderators are perfectly legal in most US states but a few states regulate them like firearm suppressors.
Read full answer →BudgetAll TypesBeginner
For a quality break barrel: $200 for the rifle, $80 for an airgun-rated scope and mounts, $30 for a tin or two of pellets, $50 for a pellet trap and targets - about $360 all-in. For an entry PCP: $400 to $700 for the rifle, $200 to $400 for a hand pump or used SCBA tank with adapter, $150 for scope and mounts, $50 for pellets - $800 to $1,300 all-in. For CO2 or multi-pump: $150 to $300 covers everything including ammo. Plan to spend more on a chronograph ($150) once you start chasing accuracy.
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